Sunday, March 27, 2011

Anna Wintour: the personality and success of the high priestess of fashion.

The Wall Street Journal

*(You'll want to read my previous post -- "The September Issue" -- before this one).

The name is Anna Wintour.

If you are anybody in the world of fashion and you are not in her inner circle, you are terrified. To those of us who have never been acquainted with her, she is the petite woman with the signature blonde bob behind the dark, round Chanel sunglasses sitting in the front row at fashion shows.

"Anna Wintour has this no nonsense personality," Brie Colangelo said. "She's cutthroat and says exactly what she thinks. She is the goddess of fashion because she is so brutally honest."

Wintour was born in 1949 and became editor at Vogue in 1988.  Though her reign over the fashion world did not begin until later in her life, she has always been connected to the world of journalism through her father, who was an editor of a London newspaper.

"I think my father really decided for me that I should work in fashion," Wintour recalls in "The September Issue."

With the help of her father and the connections of her journalist boyfriends, she quickly rose to the top in the fashion magazine industry.

Though she is known for her signature look and for being the best in the industry, most know her for her "ice princess" personality.

"At some stage in her career, Anna Wintour stopped being Anna Wintour and started being 'Anna Wintour,' at which point, like wings of a stately home, she closed off large sections of her personality to the public," The Guardian reported.

There have always been rumors of her volatile outbursts and her unrealistic requests. Hence, the birth of "The Devil Wears Prada."

"She is the editor of one of the most famous, if not the most famous, fashion magazine in the world," Colangelo said. "If she was easy going and indecisive people wouldn't respect her as much, work as hard to earn her approval, or respect her opinion."

Perhaps Colangelo has a point. Would Wintour be as worshiped by her army if she did not rule as a dictator? Vogue is definitely the Associated Press of the fashion world, being the most credible source, but would the publication still be so if it were not for the cutthroat personality of Wintour?

Jocelyne LaFortune, an aspiring journalist, agrees that Wintour's strong personality has played a large role in establishing Vogue as the bible of fashion.

"It's hard to imagine someone who isn't as strong willed being successful in an industry that is so cutthroat and competitive," LaFortune said.

Afterall, Wintour is quoted as saying: "You either know fashion or you don't."

The September Issue.

The Wall Street Journal

“There is something about fashion that can make people very nervous,” Anna Wintour, the chief editor at Vogue, explains in the ninety-minute documentary “The September Issue.”

Perhaps, it is the high priestess of fashion herself that puts everyone on edge when it comes to fashion, as we have seen in Meryl Streep's depiction of her in the "Devil Wears Prada."

However, this documentary, which follows the Vogue editor through the drama of piecing together the 2007 September issue (the most coveted issue of the year), shows a softer, funnier version of Wintour that will make any fashion fanatic adore her.


This documentary allows us to follow Wintour and her top-of-the-line fashion team around the world to London, Paris, Rome and New York as they put together the fattest issue (over five pounds in weight) of Vogue to date. I adored watching the Vogue entourage travel to Versailles and Rome -- places I visited while living abroad last year. The dream world of Vogue appears more tangible after experiencing these places first-hand -- the places are just as glamorous as the garments being modeled.

My roommate Brie Colangelo -- a California native -- introduced me to this documentary last summer. She discovered this documentary from a review in "Entertainment Weekly."

"I am not a fashionista in any sense of the world," Colangelo said. "But I enjoy fashion and I enjoyed this documentary. I am not one to spend a lot of time on my fashion, but this documentary definitely made me think more highly of the fashion and how much work goes into an outfit -- not to mention a fashion magazine."

Colangelo said she was very impressed and has more respect for the world of fashion after seeing this documentary.

"I really enjoyed this documentary because it gave us a behind-the-scenes look at Vogue and how Anna Wintour works and decides what fashion is in or out," Colangelo said.

The documentary also introduces us to Wintour's family life and we meet her daughter, Bee Shaffer, who does not share or understand her mother's passion for the fashion industry.

"Some valid points are made about how fashion is viewed by both fashionistas and those who believe fashion is unimportant and not influential in the world."

Either way, the fashion, the drama and the glamour of "The September Issue" will leave you drooling.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

New York continued.

Hello all!

Unfortunately this will be another short post because I am still updating from my Blackberry. I was at a journalism conference all day and wandered around Chelsea, the lower East Side, NYU and Greenwich Village. While I was at a small diner in Greenwich Village, Daniel Vosovic from Project Runway sat behind me. You guys, I just about died! I was very tempted to ask him for an interview for my blog, but could not interrupt his dinner with several friends. Tomorrow the Westboro Baptist Church is protesting outside my hotel in Times Square. Also the keynote speaker is the daughter of the founder of the Westboro Baptist Church. It's going to be really interesting and probably frustrating.

On a lighter note, I will be sitting in on an Associated Press meeting. I know this has nothing to do with fashion, but I am freaking out!

Anyways, I definitely enjoyed the fashion of Greenwich Village because it was less touristy and more New York, if that makes sense. The girls had their own style of tights, boots and hats. This is the New York I've been waiting for.

new york, new york.

In the city that never sleeps, neither do I. I left Portland early this morning to jet off to New York, the fashion capital of America and my dream destination since as long as I can remember. I feel that this is somewhat of a pilgrimage, though I am here for reasons other than fashion (a journalism conference, if you are dying to know).

Though I have always dreamed of venturing to New York, it does and does not meet my expectations.

Where is all the fashion? Perhaps all the fashionitas were busy with their social lives or hiding from the tourists of Times Square. Perhaps Gossip Girl and The Real Housewives of New York exaggerate the glamour of the Big Apple? This is probably the case. However, I have realized that the stereoypical New Yorker tends to have an attitude, and with that attitude comes six inch stilletos and a fur coat.

My apologies for a lack of a post. There appears to be a lack of wireless internet. Thus, I must scrammble in between my meetings to update from my Blackberry. Please expect more updates later today, as I will be headed to Greenwich Village tonight.

Friday, March 4, 2011

my list of fashion f*ck ups: the legging.

As you may have realized in my last post, I am switching it up this week (and maybe next week too) by talking about current news, trends, etc.

video courtesy of youtube

Like Lauren Conrad, I have my own list of fashion faux pas or ffu's (as phrased by Conrad). Or, rather my list is one major don't: the legging worn as pants. Unacceptable. Always will be. Unless you are a size zero.

Several months ago, I wrote a piece for The Beacon, the University of Portland's student newspaper describing my hate for this popular, yet abused trend. This will not be the last time I write about leggings in this blog because my love/hate relationship with this garment is so strong. 

Throughout the ‘80s spandex leggings were worn for aerobics, and after Madonna’s “Get into the Groove” moment, they were worn outside the gym.

My first encounter with the legging was in the first grade. I had a pair of black stirrup leggings that my mother always tried to wrestle me into. Sometimes, I was very unfortunate and succumbed to her wishes. However, these days, it’s hard to find me wearing pants of any sort as my love affair with leggings has blossomed over the past few years.

Recently, the female population is stretching the role of my favorite fashion garment too far. Leggings are being worn without anything covering them up. If they are going to be worn as pants, it must be done correctly so as to not give off a look that is vulgar.

I have one rule to assure that you’ll look good: when wearing leggings, make sure your dress, shirt or sweater falls past your bottom. No one wants to see your very unfortunate camel toe or what type of underwear you are wearing.

If you insist on wearing a top that is revealing, perhaps the jegging would be a more suitable choice. Gaining popularity last year, the jegging is the love child of jeans and leggings. They give off the look of a skinny jean, but are just as comfortable and stretchy as the legging.

Leggings are the ideal garment of clothing for the fashionable languid dresser, which is precisely what I am. This stretchy spandex stand-in for pants is the ultimate in relaxation. If the wearer happens to eat too much or gain a few pounds, the legging allows room for expansion.

Though leggings and jeggings are the easiest way to wear pants without actually wearing them, they do not leave much to the imagination. Therefore, wear with caution and for all of our sakes, wear a longer top. 

You don't want your friends thinking you're an ffu. 

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Dior sans Galliano.

google images

As I have recently delved into the beginning of the fashion empire known as Dior in a previous post an ode to Jackie Kennedy style, I would like to update you on a few of the recent happenings involving Christian Dior's label. 


John Galliano, a British fashion designer, was the head honcho behind the Dior label since 1997 up until two days ago. On Feb. 25, Dior announced that it had suspended Galliano due to his arrest in Paris for allegedly making anti-semitic remarks. On that same day, the website Citizenside received a video dating back to December of a drunken Galliano throwing anti-semitic insults at a group of Italian women--who were not Jewish. "The Sun," a British tabloid, posted the video on their website. On Mar. 1, the fashion house fired Galliano. 


Natalie Portman, a Jewish actress who has an endorsement contract with Dior for its Miss Dior Cherie fragrance, condemned the designer for his remarks. In a statement Portman said: "I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano's comments that surfaced today. In light of this video, and as an individual who is proud to be Jewish, I will not be associated with Mr. Galliano in any way. I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect and act upon combating these still-existing prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful."


However, Patricia Field, costume designer and stylist for "Sex and the City," disagreed with Portman. Fields defended Galliano by sending an e-mail to 500 friends, blogs and media, reported wwd.com. According to Fields, Galliano was acting out of character. 


"People in fashion all they do is go and see John Galliano theater every season. That's what he gives them. To me, this was the same except it wasn't in a theater or in a movie," Fields said. "John Galliano lives in theater. It's theater. It's farce. But people in fashion don't recognize the farce in it. All of a sudden they don't know him. But it's ok when it's Mel Brooks' 'The Producers' singing Springtime for Hitler."


If you are foreign to French laws, inciting racial hatred to someone in France is illegal. According to a New York Times' article, "Galliano to Face Trial Over a Anti-Semitic Remarks," Galliano could face up to a six months in prison and a $31,000 fine. His trial is set to take place sometime between April and June. 


In a statement provided through his lawyers, Galliano said: "A number of witnesses have given evidence and have told the police that I was subjected to verbal harassment and an unprovoked assault when an individual tried to hit me with a chair having taken violent exception to my look and my clothing. For these reasons I have commenced proceedings for defamation and the threats made against me... Anti-semitism and racism have no part in our society. I unreservedly apologize for my behavior in causing any offense."


Rumor has it that Galliano is now seeking rehab in Arizona.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

the 1930s: the American fashion industry during the Great Depression.

Recently, I received "New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style" in the mail. This 303 page fashion bible takes the reader through each decade of American fashion. Though America did not see its first fashion week until 1943, the 1930s began with the Great Depression that would influence nearly every aspect of fashion. Not only did hemlines drop, there was also a transformation of American fashion into a real force. In comparison with the flapper of the 1920s, the typical woman of the 1930s was older, more sophisticated and much less carefree.

Fortunately, the American fashion industry excelled in mass production, and department stores that catered to every price level emerged. By the end of the decade, women designers controlled the industry. Though, this is no surprise because no one knows a woman's body better than herself, which made it easy to understand the movement of their designs.

Designers also had to innovate when using fabrics because of the decline of the economy. Simple, ordinary fabrics that had previously been considered inappropriate for couture were used, and textile manufacturers implemented man-made materials. Artificial silk became popular in lingerie and nightgowns. Designers used printed or textured silks to disguise that real silk was not used.

Fashion has always existed even in dire times. If anything, these times are more essential to the fashion industry because designers, manufacturers and consumers must innovate new ideas. 

"Sex and the City" fashion interpreted by college students.



This past weekend my roommates and I held a "Sex and the City" themed party. Our guests had to dress how they interpreted "Sex and the City" style. Though, most Chanel and Dior gowns are out of the question when it depends on the average college student's bank account, many of our female guests wore cocktail dresses, sequins and heels. The men of the party also stayed true to "Sex and the City" style. They wore button up shirts, blazers and cashmere sweaters. Though "Sex and the City" fashion can be interpreted into over-the-top trends and fashions, ultimately it is about making the outfit your own in a way that will make you stand out from others. 

Sunday, February 20, 2011

an ode to Jackie Kennedy style.

google images

google images

During the early 1960s, Jackie Kennedy was a fashion icon for many women. She enlisted Oleg Cassini to design her wardrobe when her husband was elected president of the United States. Cassini designed nearly 300 looks for Kennedy. 

Cassini, a French-born American designer,  originally worked as a costume designer. Cassini grew up in Florence, but visited Paris twice a year with his mother to study French fashion. In later years, he moved to New York and eventually Hollywood. 

Kennedy's style was elegant, yet simple. She wore pieces that were tailored, geometric and decorated with large buttons. Many women copied the "Jackie" look by donning pillbox hats, above-the-elbow gloves and low-heel pumps. However after her time in the White House, her style changed dramatically. Her conservative First Lady clothes disappeared and she started to wear wide-leg pantsuits, headscarves, large sunglasses and gypsy skirts. Her clothing was also bright in color. 

Not only did Kennedy wear Cassini, she also wore Chanel and Dior. 

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was the inventor of the "little black dress," quilted handbags and the tweed suit. Chanel grew up in an orphanage during the late 1800s. Though she never married, she had several lovers and eventually obtained the funds to start her fashion empire. She shortened the hems of skirts to just below the knee (this was long before Courreges instituted the miniskirt in France) and made costume jewelry fashionable. According to Werle (author of "50 Fashion Designers You Should Know"), Chanel was not the first to reject the corset in her designs (Poiret and Vionnet had previously done so), but it was ultimately she who banned this garment from the wardrobes of the world. 

During World War II, Chanel stopped production of her clothing (as did most other French designers). However, in 1954 at the age of 71, Chanel made her comeback. 

Christian Dior, yet another French designer, took his wearers into the past. His evening gown creations used up to 40 meters of fabric. Chanel is quoted as saying, "These heavy, stiff dresses that don't even fit into a suitcase--ridiculous! Dior doesn't dress women, he upholsters them." However, Dior said his aim was to "make elegant women more beautiful and beautiful women more elegant." 

Dior proved to be successful, and by 1950 he had as many as 1000 dressmakers working for his fashion house. In only ten years he created 22 collections, and changed the silhouette of his designs each season. As many designers abolished the corset, Dior brought it back. Chanel's answer to this was tweed suits, quilted bags and the "little black dress."

the forgotten, yet notable: part II


google images


In 1946, Pierre Balmain yearned to bring buyers and clients back to Paris. After World War II, the French fashion scene was at a standstill. This French designer traveled throughout America to re-conquer the hearts of the elite American women, as well as their pocketbooks.

A year prior, Balmain's designs were featured in American Vogue. His designs were ultra feminine and flattered the waistline with a wide tapering skirt. This change was accepted after an era of long, fitted suits with wide shoulders. According to Simone Werle, the author of "50 Fashion Designers You Should Know," the wide, graceful shape of Balmain's clothes was exactly what women wanted--excitingly different, romantic and luxurious. However, it was Christian Dior who became famous for this look in 1947.

Originally Balmain desired to study architecture, but soon found a passion for fashion, which he called the "architecture of movement." Not only did Balmain introduce the wide tapering skirt, he also pioneered dresses and skirts that were fitted until the wearer's knees. In the 1960s, these gowns were popular among the Hollywood starlets.

Also during the 1960s, another French designer created a collection that was unlike any previous creation. According to Werle, Andre Courreges' collections looked as if they had come straight from the moon. Courreges' specialized in geometric cuts, lines and the color white. His creations were paired with goggles, hats and thigh-high boots. Courreges also raised the hemline of the skirt to above-the-knee. This was the first appearance of the miniskirt on a French runway.

In the late 1960s, Courreges launched three collections: "Prototype," "Couture Future" and "Hyperbole." Courreges clothes were as modern as the names of his collections--he created modern clothing for the modern, active woman. He also created form-fitting women's pants with a masculine style. His designs were not restricting and women had the freedom of movement while wearing Courreges' creations.

Eventually, Courreges closed his fashion house to the press and buyers because his designs were frequently being copied. In later years he tried to make several comebacks, but his creations remained low profile.

Because fashion is always about the newest trends or what is upcoming, designers have to evolve with trends. However, as the history of fashion proves, many designers cannot sync their style with these upcoming trends. Thus, they are forgotten.